Francois Peron National Park

When we arrived in Denham we went straight to the visitor information centre to ask about the national park. As it was school holidays we didn't want to go all the way out there & find it full. We were quickly assured that in the ladies 8 years at the centre she had never heard of it being full but to check with parks & wildlife next door. So we also checked with them & they said it was busy but there should be room. We also asked them about Steep Point while we were there. They said it is extremely busy & to call the ranger. We did that & was told they were fully booked out for the next 3 weeks except for one 2 night stay. It is a very long way out to Steep Point especially with the camper trailer on so we decided we wouldn't be able to go just for 2 nights. We were extremely disappointed as this was one of the places we really wanted to go in WA. Oh well hopefully next time. So be sure to book early if you want to go to Steep Point. 

We grabbed a loaf of bread from the bakery in Denham & headed out towards Francois Peron. You soon come to a tyre deflating & inflating station which is handy & they reckon you should go down to about 20 PSI. We aired down & hit the track. It was about 50km to the campground. The road was a single lane with lots of corrugations & patches of very soft sand. It was slow going but the views were amazing. We reached the first of the northern camping areas South Gregories. It had 2 areas one for generators that had 4 campers in it & one quiet area that was empty. That suited us & it even had a campsite tucked into the dunes a bit. We took that one, it didn't have as good of views as some of the others but we knew it was going to get windy. The site was really big so we set up camp with plenty of room & no neighbours, yeah!  It was getting late in the afternoon so we went down to the beach to check our area out. 

Area in front of quiet camp at South Gregories

South Gregories camp

On 1 side it had a small beach that was packed full of  birds on closer inspection they were black & white cormorants. We have never ever seen so many birds in one place. It was an amazing sight to see. Every afternoon they came in for hours, flock after flock in groups of 2-20, hundreds & hundreds of them, pretty cool except for the fishy smell they had! 

We walked up to the other end of the beach in front of the generator camp, it was a nice beach to &  some other campers were fishing, but with no luck. We headed back to camp for dinner, it had been a big day, so it was off to bed. 

Beach in front of South Gregories camp generator area

The next day we went further north. We called into Gregories campsite for a look, it was very similar to our area. We then went up to the next camping area Bottle Bay. It was lovely, a gorgeous bay, perfect if you had kids. We stopped in the day use area & went down to the beach. I went swimming, it was cold but refreshing. Mat went for a fish & soon had a couple of whiting. We stayed for a couple of hours fishing, enjoying the scenery & soaking it all in. By the time we left we had 7 good sized whiting for dinner. It was a popular spot & lots of people drove down on the beach to fish, swim & relax. A great spot. 

Bottle bay

Still further north & we came to Point Peron itself. Wow, I think I might have found almost my favourite view in WA so far. Big red sand dunes going down to white beaches & water all shades of green & blue. Truly a spectacular place. We walked to the top of one of the headlands & the view was stunning. We saw dolphins & dugongs swimming below us. We definitely wanted to come back for a fish at some stage as deep water currents swept along close to shore. 

Point Peron above & 2 photos below 

We dragged ourselves away & continued to Skipjack Point. Wow again. They have created a boardwalk out onto a point & you can see all sorts of marine life below. We saw sharks, dugong, turtles, rays & big schools of fish. Francois Peron National Park was really turning it on. 

Skipjack Point above & 2 below

Back to camp in the late afternoon for a few beers & to watch the sunset over the water. One of the best days of our trip so far. 

The next morning we headed back across the point to the eastern side out to Herald Bight. This area is way more protected from the wind & has beach camping. The water on this side is very shallow for a long way out. The camping is literally right on the beach with super soft sand. We are glad we ended up on the other side. We drove both ways on the beach & on one end found ourselves in the mangroves on a creek but the tide was out so we couldn't go fishing, the tide was also too far out to fish off the beach, so we left Herald Bight. It is definitely worth a look, but we much preferred the western side. There were plenty of people camped here though, mostly fisherman with little tinnies, the water was calm & you could see the reef a few hundred meters out so probably good fishing if you had a boat. 

Herald Bight above & 2 below

We decided to have a look at the Peron Homestead while we were close to it. It is a historic homestead that has free entry & also thermal bore water tank to swim in. We went in but it was very very hot, we could hardly get in & only stayed in for a few minutes, gave us a bath though ha ha! 

On the way back to camp we called into the first camping area on the western side Big Lagoon. It was a beautiful place but the camping was very average, apparently they are about to redevelop it to have 20 campsites. Usually we are against formalising it more, but this area really needs it. It will still leave the top of the point for the likes of us that want to get away from the crowds. Big Lagoon was just that a huge lagoon with fishing, canoeing & great for kids, a very pretty spot. 

Big Lagoon

Back to camp & it was another good day. During the night the wind started to get stronger & by morning the rain had started. It rained on & off all day, so we were confined to the tent for most of the day as the wind howled & it rained. The rain stopped in the afternoon but not the wind unfortunately & the tent flapped all night & we got hardly any sleep. The next day it was even windier so we stayed around camp & just went to our beach. It was way to windy to fish, so we didn't get to go back to Point Peron for a fish unfortunately. It ended up being our last night, we spent 5 nights & would of stayed longer but the weather forecast was still bad so we decided to head back to Denham the next day. 

Baby Pied Oyster catchers so cute

After packing up we left camp & just down the road we found a car & trailer bogged on the sand. After an hour & about 5 maxx trax recoveries we finally got them through. We ourselves then ploughed through where they had been stuck with no problems, god we love Ruby, she is a machine!!

So Francois Peron is definitely one of the harder to get to national parks, probably why we loved it so much. You need a decent 4WD to get in, especially if you are towing a trailer. Let you tyres down, so many people don't & wreck the tracks & get themselves bogged. There is an air compressor on the way out, no excuses not to "air down" ha ha. 

The cost for camping was $7.50 per adult per night. The campgrounds all had pit toilets. The camps on the western side are all individual bays, but a really good size. The camping area at Herald Bight is on the beach in soft sand with a very soft entry track to the beach. There is no water at all in the park, you need to buy it from a desalinisation plant in Denham on the Monkey Mia Road. 

We loved Francois Peron National Park. It has definitely reached our top 5 places to see in WA. If only the damn wind would let up!!

Hamelin Station Stay & the stromatolites at Hamelin Pool

Hamelin Station Stay & the Stromatolites 

It was a short run from Gladstone camping area to the Hamelin Station Stay. We had decided to stay there as we thought there were lots of things to see & do around it & we needed to do some washing & have a shower. We pulled up to Hamelin Station stay & were very impressed. It is easily the best set up station stay we have been to so far on the trip. They have taken a piece of baron rocky land & made it into something lovely. The buildings & amenities are new or improved, but still have a country feel. The cost was $24 a night for an unpowered campsite, they only have unpowered. 

We were soon set up & had the washing on, once that was hung out to dry we decided to have a look at Hamelin Pool where the stromatolites are. We parked & the car park was really busy, they are obviously popular. A boardwalk has been built around the stromatolites to protect them & to give you a good view. 

For those who don't know stromatolites are solid structures created by blue green algae that form in layers, trapping sediment in the layers that react with calcium carbonate in the sea water, that then forms limestone, these grow very slowly & are therefore extremely old, the ones at Hamelin are said to be 3000 years old. They only grow in 2 places in the world & the salty conditions of Hamelin Pool is an ideal place for them. So pretty cool to see. To be honest they just look like rocks in the water! But I guess we can say we have seen them now. 

After that we headed down towards the Hamelin caravan park which is another park in the area, it has an old telegraph station & bits and pieces to see. The park itself was deserted, only one camper trailer camped, we could see why as it had nothing on the station stay. We went into the little shop & cafe they have. It was filled with all sorts of junk really, cheap souvenirs & clothes. The lady behind the counter was yelling at a customer about what came with the fish & chips & how much it was. We soon decided to leave, due to her rude behaviour & would not spend any money with them. 

So back to the station & it was only 11am. We probably should of kept going, but we were already set up. After a bit of lunch, Mat checked over the car & found a bracket lose & on closer inspection it was broken. He went to ask the caretaker about getting a bit of metal to fix it & they were only to happy to help. Really great service. An hour or so later, he had cut & drilled the metal & had replaced the bracket, so all fixed. Nothing major, but good to have it done & the rattle gone. A bit more maintenance jobs & bits & pieces & it was time for some dinner & bed. Again the nights have been windy & chilly. 

The next morning we were up early & packed & ready to go by 7.30am. We were heading towards Denham & hoping to go up to Francois Peron National Park, but it was school holidays so not sure if we would get a spot. More on that next time. 

September Round Up

September Round Up

On the 1st of September we were at Millstream National Park on the 30th of September 2014 we were at Gladstone camp south of Carnarvon 

Total kilometres travelled 3180km. 

Total diesel bought 494.94L total cost $870.09 dearest diesel $1.848 at Exmouth, cheapest diesel $1.679 at Karratha. 

Average fuel economy is still about 17-18L/100km when calculated per tank. 

Camping. Camped 30 days in September.  0 free camp nights, 30 paid. Total cost $573 average of $19.10 per night for paid camping. Cheapest camp $10 a night for 2 people at Ningaloo, Cleaverville Beach & 40 Mile & Dearest camp fees $37 at Carnarvon. 

Best campsite - Ningaloo & Red Bluff

Worst campsite - Warroora Station

Best experiences - a week of relaxing at Ningaloo, snorkelling at Cape Range, scenery at Red Bluff. 

Worst experiences - having a bad time at Warroora station, being disappointed with the amount to see at Millstream National Park. 

Best camp cooked meal - Roast Chicken twice! Fresh emperor at Ningaloo. 

Best bought meal - local fish & chips at Coral Bay

Things we are missing

Our dogs Milly & Robbo, the family (sorry we missed the wedding Stevie & Ethan, congratulations on your special day), a bath tub, washing machine, central Qld spring, no wind, free campsites. 

Things we are not missing 

Television, work, everyday bills. 

That's it for September, what a great month, to finally get to achieve going to Ningaloo, Red Bluff & Quobba was amazing, places we have wanted to see for ages. So onto October, a month of our birthdays, so I am guessing we will be a little homesick, but very excited to be heading down the coast towards Shark Bay & Kalbarri. 

Red Bluff

Red Bluff

After our not so good time at Warroora, we headed into Carnarvon for a couple of nights at a caravan park. We badly needed to resupply & needed a few days of the luxury of showers & takeaway!  Feeling much better about the world we headed north again, we weren't sure where we were going to stay but there are a few options. It was bitumen until Point Quobba, there is a camping spot here that is very good, we checked it out but with school holidays about to start we decided we should get a spot further up the coast & stop on the way back if we wanted to. 

Point Quobba

Point Quobba camping area

The camping area at Point Quobba is large & runs along the coast & there are quite a few secluded spots, the beach area has big waves crashing in but there is also a lagoon area at one end, there are heaps of shacks built there as well, mostly just tin sheds, but lots of them, I am guessing the locals holiday shacks. Right near Point Quobba are some blowholes, definitely worth a look as the huge waves crash into the cliffs some enormous streams of water are pushed through the holes, very awesome. After some photos we continued further north. 

Blowholes

Coastline at the blowholes

We soon came to Quobba station homestead, there is camping available here & it looked ok, but we were keen to check our their other camping area Red Bluff. The coastline along here is again spectacular, ranging from big cliffs with huge waves to sandy beaches to lagoons you can snorkel in, there is really something for everyone. After a bit more corrugated rough track we came to the a Red Bluff turn off, the road isn't great but there are lots of surfer buses & even sedans that make the trip so they can catch a famous wave. We arrived at the camping area to have our breath taken away again, what a beautiful spot. The huge size of the cliff of Red Bluff itself, with white sandy beach & the bluest water. We were happy. We went to the office but it was closed, so we got to pick our campsite. The weather was supposed to get windy, so we decide against one of the sites right on the beach, but found a gorgeous spot up the hill a bit, but with some protection from the winds from some dunes, but with an amazing view. 

Red Bluff campsite

The campsite wasn't perfect, but after a number of tries to get the trailer right & a hole dug to help level it, we were set up. The set up took longer than usual as we both kept getting distracted by the view. A few beers where had that afternoon as we just soaked it all in. I got the binoculars out & checked out the surfers catching waves on the surf break at the bluff, crazy buggers. 

We stayed for  4 nights at Red Bluff & I swear there were surfers catching waves all day everyday, when we woke early in the mornings, to on dark at night. Watching them through the binoculars was addicting as we revelled in how crazy they were & how much some of their stacks must of hurt. 

Red Bluff above & below

The next day the weather was perfection, we didn't even leave the campsite, we were just happy to sit & stare for hours. Even better was watching whales & dolphins playing off shore every day, very captivating. 

Red Bluff

The next day we decided we should do something, so we went for a day trip up towards Gnarloo the last spot to camp in here area. We first went past the homestead, which had amazing views as well & headed out to Gnarloo Bay. What a find. Just gorgeous, a calm lagoon  with the reef just meters from shore (stupidly we forgot our snorkel gear). There were a few people there, fishing, paddle boarding, snorkelling, swimming & kite surfing. Just a great spot to hang out. 

Gnarloo Bay above & below

Once we tore ourselves away we headed back towards the Gnarloo camp 3 Mile. It was packed, I am guessing due to school holidays & the fact they have showers & toilets. It was in a beautiful spot with cliffs & big waves but also a little lagoon as well & a small beach. It was nice but the camping was a bit to packed in for us, so we decided not to go up there & camp after Red Bluff. 

3 Mile above & below

On the way back to Red Bluff we headed along the track that goes right along the coastline. It had some pretty good 4WDing spots with rocks & sandy dunes & you got to see some magical views. At one spot we stopped for a look over a lagoon & saw a manta ray swimming just off shore as big as a car, just amazing, we watched it swim around for about 10 minutes it was massive. 

Coast road view, Red Bluff off in the distance 

Back a Red Bluff we had another relaxing afternoon, we could get used to this place. 

The next day we checked out Red Bluff properly & walked along the beach & along some of the bluff. It was getting busier, but still not to bad. We got really lucky with our campsite as we couldn't see any other camps from it at all. While walking on the beach a whale came in really close to shore, it had everyone talking, unfortunately I didn't have my zoom lens on, but my luck held because that afternoon 2 mother & baby whales played just off shore from our camp for about half an hour & I got some photos, they are so fun to watch. 

We were really torn as to whether to stay a couple more days at Red. Bluff, we wanted to, but were also keen to keep moving. In the end we decided to go, our stay couldn't have got any better. The weather stayed perfect for our whole time there. We loved Red Bluff the vibe was awesome. There are pit sawdust toilets near every campsite that are cleaned daily & also rubbish bins. There is no water. The cost is $15 per person per night. The track in is pretty rough, so not many caravans come in, so it will mainly be you & the surfers! Pretty good.  

Beef Stew

We made this one at Cape Range when the weather was cold & windy. We did it over gas as we couldn't have a fire. It's always better over the fire but this was still delicious. 

Beef Stew

Ingredients

- 1kg of diced beef

- 4 rashers of bacon chopped

- 1 onion chopped

- 2 cloves of garlic chopped

- 1 carrot chopped

- 1/2 a sweet potato chopped

- 1 potato chopped

- 1/2 a zucchini grated

- 1 tablespoon of tomato paste

- 3 tablespoons of worchestire sauce

- 2 heaped tablespoons of gravy powder

- 1 can of beer

- 1 teaspoon of curry powder 

- 1 teaspoon of all purpose seasoning

- 1/2 a teaspoon of chilli powder

- 1 packet of chicken noodle soup

- 1/2 cup of dehydrated peas

- 1/2 cup of dried mushrooms

- salt & pepper to taste

- water

Directions

- because we were cooking on gas & it was windy I fried off the beef & veggies over butane in a frying pan & started the bacon & onions in the pot on gas, normally I would just use one big pot, but I knew it wouldn't get hot enough. 

- fry off the beef in a pan in batches until brown

- meanwhile in a pot fry off the bacon, onion & garlic until soft

- add the browned beef to the bacon mix

- in the beef pan add the veggies to get them started & brown them slightly

- in the veggies add the spices & tomato paste & fry off

- add the can of beer to the veggies to deglaze the pan, pour the whole lot into the bacon & beef mix

- add the sauce & soup mix & enough water to almost cover the beef

- stir it all together, bring to the boil, turn down to a simmer & put the lid on

- stir every 10 minutes or so

- cook for at least an hour

- after an hour add the dried mushrooms & leave the lid off so the sauce starts to thicken

- after another 20-30 minutes add the dried peas

- cook for a further 10-15 minutes until peas are cooked through & sauce is nice & thick

- serve, we served ours with fresh buttered bread, but you could do pasta, rice, potato etc

The longer this cooks the better. Leftovers are always even better again. Stews might not photograph the best, but this was very tasty on a cold night.